From the boxto your first session.

1. Pick a spot that's flat, clean, dry: under the seat is the standard. The main frame, the electrical box or the back of the plate work too. Avoid the immediate vicinity of the exhaust (heat) and the wheels (impacts).
2. Degrease the surface with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol. Let it dry for 30 s.
3. Peel the film off the 3M adhesive already applied under the device. Press firmly for 30 seconds to activate the glue.
4. Optional but recommended for motocross / enduro: add two zip ties crossed over it (included in the box). Belt and braces if the bike vibrates hard or gets pressure-washed regularly.
5. Let the adhesive set for 24 h before the first ride so it reaches full strength.

1. In the app, open Garage → + Add a bike.
2. Scan the QR code printed on the device label or stuck on the packaging. If you no longer have the label, the 6-character code on the back of the device works too (manual entry).
3. The app checks that the device is free (not already assigned to another account). If you bought it second-hand, ask the seller to transfer it from their app: they generate a transfer token that you paste into Settings → Receive a bike.
4. Enter the make, model and year of your bike. Choose the reference service program (motocross 50, 4-stroke enduro, sport road…): you can override it later.
5. Confirm the starting hours: engine hours already on the meter the day of mounting (typically 0 for a new bike, otherwise an honest estimate).

Calibration teaches the device the vibration signature of YOUR engine. It's needed to tell a running engine apart from a bike pushed on its stand, transport in a van, or a knock on the frame.

1. Open the app, go to the bike, launch Calibration.
2. Start the engine. Let it idle for the 60 seconds the app asks for.
3. Switch off the engine. The calibration is saved and signed on the server: it stays valid for life for this bike.

Really nothing. The device detects the start-up, counts the hours, records the session locally. No need to open the app before, during or after.

One rule: if someone can find it in thirty seconds, the spot is wrong. Unlike the RUUVI, you're not after easy access: you're after invisible.

1. Pick a hiding place: under the fairing, behind a side panel, in the void under the seat once the hatch is back on, inside the tail unit. Goal: nothing visible when the bike is simply sitting on its stand.
2. Degrease the surface with isopropyl alcohol, let it dry for 30 s, then press the adhesive firmly for 30 seconds. Add two zip ties if the bike vibrates hard: for motocross and enduro, that's recommended.
3. Point the face of the device skyward as much as the hiding place allows, and avoid sealing it entirely inside metal: GPS and cellular signals travel poorly through a closed metal box.
4. Keep it away from the exhaust and from areas exposed to gravel or a direct pressure-washer jet.
5. Don't tell anyone where it is. That's half of what makes a tracker work. If you're afraid of forgetting, write the spot down somewhere only you will see.

1. In the app, open Garage → + Add a bike and scan the device's QR code (or type in the code printed on the back).
2. Enter make, model, year, then the starting meter read off the dashboard the day you mount it.
3. Take the bike out into the open. The tracker connects to the cellular network on its own: the first position shows up in the app within a few minutes: no need to stand next to it with your phone.
4. In the tracker settings, choose whether this bike's meter is displayed in hours or in kilometres.

Everything happens in the bike's Anti-theft protection screen. A switch at the top arms or disarms monitoring. Below it, four settings are enough to stop getting false alerts.

The alert tells you what triggered it: movement detected, suspicious speed, movement outside the window, impact: along with the time and the distance. Three possible answers, one tap:

Only the HOROTAG RUUVI seals hours automatically. On a GPS tracker, the meter fills itself from your trips, but it stays an estimate: it's up to you to correct it when it drifts.

1. From the bike, open Adjust the meter.
2. Two ways to enter it: "I rode": you give the length of your ride; or "My meter reads": you copy the value shown on the bike and the difference is worked out for you.
3. Decimals accepted (1.5 = 1 h 30), 50 h maximum per entry. Fill in the start date and a note if you want to find the ride again later.
4. The meter cannot go backwards: it only ever moves one way, so the log stays credible at resale.

1. In the app, open Garage → + Add a bike and skip the scan step: you can create a bike with no device.
2. Enter make, model, year, and choose the reference service program so you get the right service dues.
3. Enter the starting meter: whatever your bike shows today. Everything you declare afterwards is added on top of that base.

This is the core move of this path. On a bike with no device, the session is the meter.

1. On the bike, tap + Session.
2. Adjust the start date and time (the app suggests "two hours ago" by default).
3. Enter the duration in hours: decimals accepted, 1.5 = 1 h 30: and, if you know it, the distance in kilometres. Distance is optional: left empty, it isn't counted as 0.
4. Fill in whatever you want kept in the log: place, terrain (motocross, enduro, trial, sand, hard enduro, forest, MX track…), weather, notes.
5. Confirm. The ride joins the log and the duration is credited to the meter right away.

Every confirmed session moves the bike's hour meter forward. Service dues are based on it: the oil change at 50 h comes up when you've declared 50 h, not by guesswork.

Declarative doesn't mean editable after the fact. A confirmed service entry is signed on the server: it can no longer be rewritten, only completed by a correction entry. So a buyer sees a coherent, dated, untouched history.