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Motocross winter storage: the complete checklist

MAINTENANCE3 min de lecture

How to prepare your motocross bike for winter storage: cleaning, oil changes, metal protection, tyre care, battery, and spring restart.

Sommaire · 10 parties
  1. 01Step 1: a complete clean
  2. 02Step 2: fluids
  3. 03Step 3: fuel
  4. 04Step 4: engine
  5. 05Step 5: suspension
  6. 06Step 6: tyres
  7. 07Step 7: battery (where fitted)
  8. 08Step 8: protecting it from the environment
  9. 09Restarting in spring
  10. 10Documenting your winter storage

Putting the motocross bike away for the winter? Here is the checklist to find it in perfect shape come spring.

01Step 1: a complete clean

Before anything else, wash it thoroughly. No mud left in the corners — it will keep attacking the metal for four months.

  • Pressure washer, starting from underneath (frame, suspension, drivetrain).
  • Soft brush and degreaser on the chain, sprockets and calipers.
  • Dry it carefully (blower or microfibre cloth).
  • Spray something like WD-40 or ACF-50 onto bare metal, fasteners, springs and spindles.

Whatever you do, do not spray inside an open airbox: guaranteed contamination in spring.

02Step 2: fluids

  • Engine oil: full change before storage, not after. Used oil carries acids that attack the bearings while the bike sits.
  • Coolant: check the antifreeze strength. If the bike is stored below freezing (unheated garage), aim for -25 °C minimum.
  • Brake fluid: if you expect more than 6 months idle, bleed it.

03Step 3: fuel

4-stroke

Fill the tank completely with a little stabiliser (Sta-Bil, Liqui Moly Stabilizer). A full tank limits internal condensation.

2-stroke

Drain the tank and the carburettor (open the float bowl drain screw). Premix degrades and blocks the jets within 3 months.

04Step 4: engine

  • Run it for 1-2 minutes to circulate the fresh oil.
  • Switch it off, fit a new spark plug (or clean the old one), squirt 5 ml of engine oil into the cylinder through the plug hole, and turn it over a few times on the starter (with the plug still out).
  • Refit the plug.

That protects piston, rings and bore from corrosion.

05Step 5: suspension

  • Compress the fork and shock a few times (to circulate the oil).
  • Leave the bike on a centre stand or a bike stand, wheels off the ground. If you have no stand, move it around once a month.

The goal: never leave it in one fixed position for four months (seals take a set, tyres flat-spot).

06Step 6: tyres

  • Inflate to 1.5 bar minimum front and rear (versus 0.8-1.0 in use) to limit flat-spotting.
  • Store out of direct sunlight (UV hardens the rubber).
  • Ideal setup: on a stand, wheels off the ground.

07Step 7: battery (where fitted)

For a road-legal enduro:

  • Take the battery out.
  • Put it on a smart charger (Optimate, Ctek) for the whole winter.
  • No charger? Recharge it monthly at the very least.

A battery that sits below 12.4 V for long enough sulphates its cells and goes in the bin by spring.

08Step 8: protecting it from the environment

  • Cover the bike with a breathable cover (not a plastic tarp — condensation).
  • If it has to be stored outdoors (avoid it), at the very least keep it under a dry shelter.
  • Put a few moisture-absorbing sachets (silica gel) nearby.

09Restarting in spring

1. Check tyre pressures and chain tension. 2. Oil level, coolant, brake fluid. 3. Refit the charged battery (where applicable). 4. Start it. If it will not fire after a few attempts, check the plug, fresh fuel, and the spark. 5. First outing: ride gently for 10-15 min to circulate the fluids, then check for leaks.

10Documenting your winter storage

Note your storage and restart dates in your service log — it counts as part of the history. In the HOROTAG app it is a "winter storage" job you record in 2 taps.

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